The VILAMOURA complex farther west is reputedly the biggest private holiday development in Portugal and perhaps the whole of Europe. Amid quality hotels and masses of apartments, this is a holiday playground offering a large marina, a choice of three golf courses and a wide range of other sports facilities. For those with the means to avoid heavy road traffic, there's even a private airstrip. The Roman gentry liked it here too. You can visit the site of a first-century nobleman's villa.

It is such a vast sprawl, and even though it is copiously signposted, it can be a confusing place to find your way around. Outside of the individual complexes within the overall complex, the heart of the matter is really the yacht-crammed marina. There are many restaurants and bars on or near the marina quayside.

Nearby, the Vilamoura Casino is not quite up to Las Vegas standards, but you can try your luck on the one-armed bandits or on the more serious gaming tables. The cavernous casino restaurant features a nightly floor show with high-kicking dancers. For film buffs there's a comfortable cinema with English-language films.

Standing somewhat less salubriously next to Vilamoura is the once-upon-a-time but alas long-gone "quaint little fishing village" of QUARTEIRA. It's now a big beach resort. Over the past 15 years or so, Quarteira has been messed up, built up and now, thankfully, cleaned up.The neighbours over in Vilamoura might look down their noses and the Quinta do Lago folks wouldn't be seen dead there, but masses of package holiday-makers actually enjoy Quarteira's combination of high-rise apartments and down-to-earth diversions.

It has an extra-long beach and certainly no shortage of eating-houses and watering-holes with grub which is familiar enough no matter what language you speak.