TAVIRA town is gently dignified and picturesque, particularly pleasant
down by the banks of the river Gilhão which runs through it. To get
orientated, first visit the vicinity of the Praça da República with
its arcaded town hall near a seven-arched Roman bridge and adjacent
gardens. They are overlooked by the church of Santa Maria do Castelo
and the castle battlements situated on the highest, most defensible
and therefore oldest part of town. There was a mosque on the site of
the church before the Moors surrendered Tavira to the Portuguese Christian
commander, Dom Paia Peres Correia, in 1242. The church contains his
tomb.
It's
an easy walk up to the castle battlements. From there you look over
18th-century pyramid-shaped rooftops, a distinctive characteristic of
the eastern part of the Algarve, out to the working salt-pans, the now
derelict tuna canning factories and the sea beyond. The town is no longer
accessible from the sea by boat because of the silting up of the river
mouth, but once upon a time, in the Middle Ages, Tavira was a busy port
shipping salt, wine and dried fish to north-west Europe and north Africa.
Although services are held in few of the churches, there are more places
of worship in Tavira than any other town in the Algarve. The most ornate
is the Carmo church on the east side of the river. Its interior is a
good example of baroque gone barmy.
If
you want to get away from architecture, in fact get away from almost
everything, take the road from the Praça da República parallel to the
riverfront that runs past the market. It's called Rua José Pires Padinha
and it runs a long way out, past boat hulks and across the salt pans,
to a jetty from where you can take a short boat ride out to the tranquil
beaches on Ilha de Tavira (Tavira Island).
Oppposite
the gardens, Rua José Pires Padinha is lined with cafés and restaurants.
See
the official
Tavira council site for more information (Portuguese language)